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How-To

August 4, 2008 07:00 PST

Install the Wayne-Dalton Thermostat

By David Powell

Installing a Z-Wave Thermostat is a very rewarding project. I can't think of a better project that provides more convenience and comfort with such a small change. Imagine being able to  control your thermostat from anywhere in your home. This means at 2 a.m. when you are suddenly awakened from the cold frigid air in the middle of the night you can grab your handheld controller and adjust the temperature a few degrees without ever having to leave the comfort of your bed. With the proper Home Automation controller you could adjust your thermostat from just about anywhere in the world. For example, you could set the temperature up or down a few degrees while you are away at work so that your air conditioner or heater is not working as hard while you're away. Then use the offices internet connection or your cell phone to adjust the temperature on your way home for the perfect comfort level.

As rewarding as the result of installing a Z-Wave Thermostat can be the installation process does require that you pay careful attention to details. Heating and cooling systems come in multiple types, brands, and configurations. This adds a lot of confusion to the process because thermostats are typically not designed to handle every type of system. To make things even more complex not every manufacturer follows the same wire color codes. This How-To is designed to assist you in gathering the information you need for a successful and confident installation.

 

Gathering Information

Before starting your installation you need to make sure you have the correct thermostat. This can be done by gathering some information about your heating and cooling system and writing it down as a quick reference. You'll need to know:

  • Furnace manufacturer
  • Thermostat voltage
  • System type
  • Number of thermostat wires
  • Colors of thermostat wires

As I already mentioned, some manufacturers use different wire color codes for their systems. York and Trane are two manufacturers that are often referred to in the installation manuals of Z-Wave thermostats. For example, the B (Blue) wire means 24v AC for one manufacturer and another manufacturer may call B (Blue) the common wire or energized heat wire. It's important to know what your wires actually mean. Try to find an installation manual for your Make and Model furnace. Sometimes, removing the cover of your furnace will reveal the other end of your thermostat wires. There is a good chance these wires are connected to terminals that are labeled (Figure 1). Connecting a thermostat wrong could seriously damage your heating and cooling system.

Figure 1. Labeled Terminals
Figure 1. Labeled Terminals

The most common voltage for thermostats in newer homes is 24v AC. Some older homes use 110v AC and on rare occasions you might find Millivolt systems. Most, if not all, Z-Wave thermostats require 24v AC to operate. If you have anything other than 24v AC you should contact the manufacturer of your thermostat for its recommendations. To determine if your thermostat is 110v AC or 24v AC simply remove the existing thermostat from the wall while leaving the wires attached. It's a good idea to go ahead and shut off the power to the heating and cooling system at the home's circuit breaker panel or fuse box (Figure 2). Note that there are typically multiple circuits providing power to the heating and cooling system. For example, mine are labeled A.C., Furnace, and Air Cleaner.  You should shut them all off to protect you and your system.


Figure 2. Circuit Panel Multiple Breakers

After removing the thermostat you should see four to seven wires whose sizes are 18 AWG (Figure 3). If you have 2 wires that are 14 AWG or larger present then you have a 110v AC system. If all wires are 18 AWG then you have a 24v AC system.


Figure 3. 18 AWG Wires

The Wayne-Dalton thermostat that we are installing in this tutorial supports multiple system types. Other manufacturers such as RCS have a separate thermostat for each system type. So it's important to know what type of system you have. Here are some possible types:

  • Gas Furnace
  • Boiler and Oiled Fired
  • Electric Heat and Cooling
  • Heat Pump

To determine the configuration of your system, you should look at the number of wires connected to your existing thermostat and the color of those wires. Sometimes the color of the wires coming from the wall do not match the color code on the thermostat. You should write down both by drawing a diagram and labeling the diagram. This way you can always go back to the original configuration if something should go wrong.

 

Installation

Now that you have gathered all the information you'll need and you made sure that your thermostat is compatible with your heating and cooling system, it's time to install the thermostat. We will be installing the Wayne-Dalton WDTC-20 but the steps should be similar for most Z-Wave–enabled thermostats.

Tools

  • Philips screwdriver
  • 18 AWG wire strippers
  • Pliers
  • Drill
  • Hammer
  • Level
  • Pencil

Step 1: READ THE MANUAL

You can seriously damage your system by connecting the thermostat wrong. Make sure you read the manual and triple check your work. If you are not confident that you have everything 100 percent correct you should consult with a professional.

Download PDF Manual Here

Step 2: Label the wires

The Wayne-Dalton thermostat provides sticky labels with their thermostat kits. You need to label the wires coming out of the wall. However, you will want to label the wires with the names as indicated on the old thermostat (Figure 4). Take careful note that B (Blue) may need to be relabeled as C depending on your system requirement.


Figure 4. Label Thermostat Wires

Step 3: Mount the Bracket

Remove the mounting bracket from the back of the Wayne-Dalton thermostat. This is done by pressing in the tabs on the sides of the thermostat and lifting the bottom of the thermostat up from the bottom. Using a drill, you must pre-drill holes for the provided wall anchors. Use the bracket as a guide for marking the holes. Lightly tap the anchors into the holes using a hammer. Then screw the bracket onto the wall making sure that it's level (Figure 5).


Figure 5. Bracket

Step 4: Connect the Wires

Make sure you have plenty of wire length to work with by removing some of the out jacket from the thermostat cable. You should have a good six to eight inches of wire exposed. This is solid core wire and can become brittle and break if you flex it too much. It's a good idea to start fresh by cutting off the existing exposed conductor and using a pair of wire strippers to strip the insulation from the conductor.

Using pliers make a small hook in the conductor in the clockwise direction. This loop helps make a tight connection when attached to the screw terminals. Match the labels on the thermostat wire up to the labels on the bracket and make the appropriate connections (Figure 6). Make sure your loops are facing clockwise because the screws also tighten in the clockwise direction.


Figure 6. Connected Wires

Step 5: Install Batteries and Jumpers

One of the nice features of the Wayne-Dalton thermostat is that it uses 2-AA batteries to power the electronics. The now discontinued ACT ZTT000 thermostat had a built in power supply that would get hot when you pressed buttons to adjust the settings. The Wayne-Dalton thermostat does not have this heat problem because it uses batteries instead. The Wayne-Dalton thermostat kit does not come with batteries so you will need to provide your own (Figure 7).


Figure 7. Batteries and Jumpers

The Wayne-Dalton thermostat also requires you to set several jumpers on the circuit board. The circuit board silkscreen writing illustrates the proper placement of the jumper for each setting. You'll need to identify your type of system in the manual and configure the jumpers per the instruction manual.

Step 6: Install the Thermostat on the Bracket

There are a series of pins on the thermostat that line up with the terminals on the mounting bracket. Make sure these pins and terminals are aligned correctly and simply snap the thermostat back onto the bracket (Figure 8).


Figure 8. Thermostat Mounted

Step 7: Restore Power and Test

Restore power at the breaker panel. Then test both the Cool and Heat settings of your thermostat by actually adjusting the temperature on the thermostat. It may take a few moments for the heating and cooling system to turn on after adjusting the temperature. Be patient and wait at least 5 minutes. If problems occur, contact the manufacturer's tech support listed in the installation manual.

 

Ready for More?

If you're ready to add security to your control and comfort, follow the link below to install that Wayne-Dalton Car2u System.

 

<-- How-to: Get Started with Hawking HomeRemote Pro Kit

 

David Powell is the technology editor for ZWaveWorld.com. You can reach him via our community forums.

 

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